As a regular visitor to Paris, I’m frequently asked by friends heading there for the first time for recommendations of what to do and see. Whittling down my favorites has always been difficult — after all, every time I visit, I land armed with an impossible-to-conquer selection of new places that I’ve read about and want to check out. This list is not those. Instead, it brings together 10 classic must-sees (according to moi and ordered roughly from west to east, not by preference), each one highlighting something different about the city.

Paris is eminently walkable, and you’ll discover so much as you wander along its rues. My suggestion? Use these places as destinations, but don’t take the most direct route to get there (unless you really need hot chocolate now). Explore the side streets, stop into shops that pique your interest and find your own version of the City of Light.

Ladurée
Ask where to find the best macarons, and this tea shop with locations around the city will most likely be listed among the top choices. For a first-timer, I recommend the one on the Champs-Elysées. It’ll probably be busy, but that will give you plenty of time to people watch and take in the scene. Sit down for tea and dessert in the café, then join the queue at the pastry counter and create a souvenir box of rainbow-colored macarons to munch on later. (The key to macarons is eating them within a few days; they tend to get stale quickly, unless you can store them in the freezer.) Ladurée Paris Champs Elysées, 75 Av. des Champs-Élysées, 75008

Sacré-Cœur
I love this part of the city with all my heart. I have fond memories of sitting on the steps of the church the first night I ever saw Paris, as a college student studying abroad — staring out at the gray buildings that filled the cityscape, then looking behind me at the imposing, lit-up basilica. The area can be rather cheesy touristy, but that’s all part of the fun. So is taking the funicular all the way up to the top of the hill. Wander around the neighborhood behind the church and you may even come across a vineyard. When you decide to head back down to the main part of the city, aim for rue des Martyrs, which is packed with little shops, bakeries and restaurants that’ll entice any foodie. Sacré-Cœur, 35 rue du Chevalier de la Barre, 75018

Angelina
I don’t care if it’s 90 degrees outside — get thee to Angelina on rue de Rivoli for a cup of the aptly lauded Chocolat chaud à l’ancienne dit « l’Africain» in a classic setting. The thick, rich, melted chocolate is only slightly tempered by the addition of freshly whipped cream. And no, it’s not overdoing it to order a pastry on the side. It appears that everyone around the world is familiar with Angelina, and it might seem that they’ve all decided to visit on the same day you have. The insider secret is to reserve a table online and skip much of the fuss. Do it. Now. Angelina, 226 rue de Rivoli, 75001

Musée d’Orsay
With 100-plus museums to choose from, you’ll have your work cut out for you. But this lovely collection of art on the banks of the Seine should be at the top of your list. The building itself is gorgeous — a former train station that dates back to the early 1900s. It’s bright and airy and has a giant clock on the top floor through which you can get a panoramic view of Paris, plus an incredibly ornate ballroom. Inside you’ll also find a jaw-dropping assortment of paintings and sculptures, including ones from Gustave Caillebotte, Mary Cassatt, Paul Cézanne, Vincent van Gogh (Self-Portrait), Paul-Auguste Renoir, Édouard Manet (Déjeuner sur l’Herbe), Claude Monet and so many more. Do yourself a favor and book through the Paris tourist office ahead of time to avoid the crazy long lines. Musée d’Orsay, 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur, 75007

Le Bon Marché
Head over to the Left Bank to visit this department store where you can pick up the latest fashions, browse through French cosmetics or enjoy a sun-soaked lunch in the glass-roofed café, La Table. There’s even an outpost of the lauded Rose Bakery. But for me, the pièce de résistance is the ground-floor food hall/grocery, La Grande Épicerie. Row upon row of delectables from around the world greet you as you wander the aisles. Chocolate bars. Jams. Teas. Foie gras. Pasta. Then there’s the bakery, the butcher’s counter, the pâtisserie. Grab the makings for a picnic or pick up a few souvenirs. [Full disclosure: I also love Galeries Lafayette, an ornate shopping mecca in the 9th arrondissement on the Right Bank. But I felt that I had too many options north of the river, so I went with LBM. Make sure to look up at the ceiling when you enter the Galeries.] Le Bon Marché, 24 rue de Sèvres, 75007

Le Marais
This area spread across the 3rd and 4th arrondissements is the heart of old Paris, and it’s my favorite place to stay. You’ll happen upon cobblestone streets, tiny museums and plenty of historic buildings. Remnants of its time as the chief Jewish quarter still remain, especially on rue des Rosiers, but it’s now also become known as a very LGBTQ-friendly neighborhood. For a little history mixed with literature, make your way to chic Place des Vosges and the house of author Victor Hugo. The Picasso Museum is ideal for getting your art on. There are a multitude of boutiques and big-name chains for those interested in shopping; popular local options are the trendy Merci (clothing, housewares, miscellany) and BHV, a multistory department store. There’s plenty of food to be had, too, whether that’s lunch at the tea room Carette, falafel at the incredibly hyped — Lenny Kravitz ate here! — L’As du Fallafel, a treat from L’Éclair de Génie (a dozen or so flavors of the pastry, plus mini versions) or macarons from Pierre Hermé.

Le Loir dans La Théière
Hands down, this is my favorite café in the entire city. I wandered through its doors one day as a student and thought I’d discovered something amazing — and I had, although I definitely wasn’t the first. Lunchtime draws crowds, and the genial dining area — outfitted with mismatched furniture, the walls decorated with old event posters — will be abuzz with chatter. The menu is written on chalkboards plunked down around the handful of rooms, but the key visual is the sideboard overloaded with desserts — tarts, bars, an always-present lemon pie with a sky-high meringue — that will probably be the first thing you see. (Everyone walks past it, somewhat like the temptation of walking through first class as you search for your seat in coach, except that there’s nothing stopping you from indulging in what you see here.) The staff, too, is wonderful, friendly and welcoming — I’ve never had a bad experience. Le Loir dans La Théière, 3 rue des Rosiers, 75004

Berthillon Glacier
Yup, there are a lot of food places on this list — but c’mon, this is Paris! Fortunately, you’ll be walking at least as much as you’ll be eating, so it all evens out. Spend a morning visiting nearby Notre-Dame Cathedral (I highly recommend taking the tour, which will yield gorgeous views over Paris as you climb all the way to the top), then take a stroll on the blockslong Île Saint-Louis. You’ll see plenty of signs advertising the Berthillon brand — it’s sold all over the place — but head to the salon du thé in the middle of the island to get your scoops of ice cream or sorbet in flavors such as salted caramel, passion fruit, black chocolate and chestnut. Even if it’s the middle of winter, this is one sweet you won’t want to miss. Berthillon Glacier, 29-31 rue Saint-Louis en l’Île, 75004

Septime
This is the meal you’ve spent weeks planning for — because that’s how far in advance you need to snag a table. Reservations open up every day for dates three weeks out and tend to fill up quickly, but fortunately the restaurant is open for lunch and dinner (lunch seats seem to be a little easier to come by). Septime has earned the honor of being one of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, and I can confirm that it deserves its place. We ate there when word was just starting to spread, and the food (a four-course lunch option for 42 euros, a seven-course, 80 euro one in the evening, with a menu based on what’s fresh at the moment) + ambiance + service make it a spot worth returning to. Cool note: The restaurant owns a farm near the city, from which it sources a lot of its produce. Oh, and check out the buzzy 11th arrondissement while you’re there. Septime, 80 rue de Charonne, 75011

Marché d’Aligre
There are numerous markets that you can visit while in the city: organic ones, ones that are open only twice a week, ones in chichi quartiers, ones in the burbs. I’m partial to this large, sprawling market in the 11th that incorporates an outdoor produce section, flower vendors, a flea market and an indoor area with fresh foods and cheeses. It’s crowded, and you’ll have to dodge shoppers pushing their little carts or risk bruised ankles, but it’s very everyday, neighborhood-y Paris, and it’s worth braving the hoards. As you walk down the road between stalls, you’ll hear cries of “deux euros, deux euros” as vendors try to entice you with their deals. Many markets in Paris frown upon touching the produce, but I’ve found that that’s less true here — although it’s always best to ask before groping the peaches or pawing your way through the piles of cherries. Afterward, chill with a glass of wine at the always-packed Le Baron Rouge or wander a few blocks away to the bakery Blé Sucré, known for its madeleines. Marché d’Aligre, rue d’Aligre et Place d’Aligre, 75012